Paris, France

This entry is part of a travel series that includes Oscar and my recommendations when traveling to our favorite places. Our recommendations focus mainly on restaurants, cuisine, and cafés - since our trips tend to revolve around food - but we do manage to sneak in a few can't-miss things to see and do. Click on Travel in the right hand column to see other destinations.

AIRPORT
The major airport in Paris is Charles de Gaulle. It is enormous so give yourself some time extra time to exit the airport. There are several terminals and can be a little overwhelming at first. Just be sure to follow the signs and you should be fine. If you need help, stop by an information booth. They are pretty good at pointing you in the right direction and are quick to speak in English.

TRANSPORTATION TO DOWNTOWN
RER Train: The train is the best way to go. It departs directly from the airport and leaves you in the heart of Paris. There are some trains that don’t make stops until it arrives within the city limits of downtown and it only takes about 30 minutes. This train also connects to other RER lines within downtown and the subway system. You will need to purchase your ticket from a RER kiosk located at the entry to the RER line. I recommend using your credit card, if not, you have to have exact change in euros. It is very reasonably priced. Your ticket is good for the RER train to the city and any transfer you make to your final destination, regardless if it is another RER line or a subway line.

Taxi: I do not recommend taking a taxi it is extremely expensive and takes longer than the train due to traffic.

GETTING AROUND PARIS
Walking: Again, I recommend walking the city. By the end of your trip your feet will be sore and you will have a stiff neck from walking around so much looking up at everything. Paris is very easy to navigate thanks to the Siene. If you can find the river, you can easily locate your next destination.

Metro: Paris is organized by neighbourhoods and the metro is a good way to get you from one zone to the next. There is a very extensive network of subway lines and trains throughout Paris and its suburbs, which is good but can be confusing at times. Compared to Madrid, I find Paris’ metro to be harder to navigate, not nearly as clean, and not very safe at night. However, it is the best choice during the day to get you around the city. I recommend buying a multi-ride or day pass because a single ride is quite pricey.

Taxi: Taxis are a good source of transportation at night. Almost all taxis have a GPS system and it is good to know the cross streets of where you are going.

EATING OUT
Meal Hours: Breakfast is normally served until 10am. The best bet for breakfast is to find a local boulangerie/patisserie and buy a hot croissant or pain au chocolat with a nice cup of coffee. Lunch is served from about 12-2pm and dinner from 8-11:30pm. Lunch is casual and dinner tends to be more elegant.

Bistrot: These are French icons. They are small restaurants or cafés that serve a daily menu that is very economical. They tend to serve authentic French cuisine and boast a very French atomosphere. A good choice for lunch or an intimate dinner.

Boulangerie/Patisserie: These French bakeries offer lots of options for breakfast, lunch, or a light snack. They serve everything from baguette sandwiches, to quiches, to mini pizzas, to pastries. Your eyes will light up as soon as you walk inside and the smell stay with your forever.

GRATUITY
Similar to Spain, a tip of a couple of coins at a restaurant, for bellhops and taxi drivers will suffice. If it is a more upscale restaurant, a 10% tip would be reasonable

RESTAURANTS
Le Petit Prince: This is my all time favorite restaurant in Paris. It is a small bistro located on a dark alley close to the Pantheon. I was wondering the neighbourhood one day and stopped in front of it because it had a red door. It turns out that it was the same restaurant a local friend of mine had recommended. The food is outstanding and it is very reasonably priced (about 30 euros/person). I love the atmosphere, too. Small tables, not too close together, intimate lighting, and candles on every table. It is packed with Parisians but the staff speaks English. *Reservation required.

Le Coup Chou: This restaurant is located literally across the alley from Le Petit Prince and is owned by the same group. It is absolutely enchanting. It is an old house that has been renovated into a restaurant so you eat in different rooms of the house. Each dining area has its own fireplace, too – very romantic. This place is a little more sophisticated than Le Petit Prince and a little more expensive (around 45 euros/person). The food is wonderful but I am biased and think Le Petit Prince is just a little better. The crème brulee is out of this world … I have never had better. *Reservation required.

Le Relais de l’Entrecote: We love this place! You can’t make a reservation so be prepared to wait on line – and many times outside! The concept is very simple – they serve a simple salad followed by a thin strip of steak with a special sauce and french fries. All you need to choose is how well done you want your steak, your wine, and dessert, if you still have room. And, just when you think you are done, they bring out more! You will not leave hungry, I promise. The tables are very close together and the service is prompt since they have quite a bit of turnover. It is a great Parisian experience and the food is great at a great price.

Au Pied de Cochon: This is an icon of Paris. If I am not mistaken, it used to be a soup kitchen that fed the homeless. Now, it is packed day and night since it is open 24hrs/day. They are famous for anything pork (pigs feet, shin, leg, etc) and their French Onion Soup. The tables are super tiny and REALLY close together. (You will make friends .. or enemies .. with those next to you.) Oscar and I ate late here one night after going to the Moulin Rouge. We weren’t that hungry so my opinion may be biased. I wasn’t that impressed with the food (the soup was great) but it was definitely worth going to. I really liked the restaurant’s décor and the people that dined there were mostly locals and quite the characters. *Reservation recommended but not necessary.

CAFÉS/BAKERIES
Café de Flore: This café is a landmark in Paris and was a favorite of many famous writers and artists. It is located in the heart of Saint-Germain, one of my favourite neighborhoods. It is quite pricey for what it is, especially the food, but nice for coffee. I had to go just for the experience and ordered a café au lait, which cost me almost 6 euros. The truth is, coffee in general is expensive in Paris and, on average, it is about 5 euros.
PAUL: This is a chain bakery that Oscar and I love. They have the best selection of croissants, pastries, pain au chocolat, sandwiches, and breads. Their baguettes are made authentic French style and are amazing. When they were hot fresh out of the oven, Oscar and I would almost finish the whole thing before we even got home. This is the perfect place to have breakfast or a nice light lunch. You can find them all over Paris.

Lauduree: This is also a chain bakery and café. They are known for their macaroons and chocolates but could be famous for just about any of their pastries. There was one close to where I lived and when Oscar would come on the weekends I would stop by and pick up something for dessert. I wasn’t ever a big chocolate fan until I went to Paris. Their millefeuilles and religuieuses are delicious. They also have the most dainty tea room at their Bonaparte location. One afternoon I went and had a tarte tatin (an apple pastry) and coffee and enjoyed every moment. The Bonaparte location is located in Saint-Germain and walking distance from the Louvre.

Pierre Herme: Pierre Herme has been called the Picasso of Pastries and his shop has been referred to as a pastry boutique. He makes the most innovative pastries I have ever tasted. Each pastry is a piece of art. He is also known for his macaroons but you will find more than the ordinary flavors here. I particularly liked his use of roses and different aromas.

Le Loir dans la Theiere: This is a small café in the old part of Paris, Marais. It has a bohemian air to it and serves the best hot chocolate in all of Paris. They also offer quite the selection of teas and homemade cakes. All I have had there is the hot chocolate but that is all you need! It is also located on a wonderful, narrow street that is definitely worth exploring. It is close to the Jewish neighborhood so you can find great Jewish bakeries and delis close by, too.

SHOPPING
Galeries Lafayette: This is the big Parisian department store. The building itself is amazing and worth a visit. Everything here is astronomically expensive so I don’t recommend doing much shopping here. However, there is an amazing view from the top of the building. Go to the last floor (I believe there is a restaurant there) and take the escalator to the roof. You have a great panoramic of the city and it’s free!

Printemps: This is another famous department store. Their prices are much more reasonable than Galeries Lafayette.

Rue de Rivoli: This street is home to many international shops. Here you can find Etam, Zara, Mango, Esprit, H&M, etc. It gets packed on the weekends but a great place to shop, people watch, and stop into a small café.

Champs Elysees: This is the major avenue in Paris and one of the most famous streets in the world. The flagship stores for Louis Vuitton and Cartier are found here along with a number of theatres, cinemas, and restaurants. And, you can’t miss the Arc de Triomphe that marks one of the most famous parts of the street. Oscar and I found it rather interesting that there are several car showrooms located on the Champs Elysees. Another one of our favorite attractions is the flagship store of Nespresso. It is over three floors of coffee heaven. You have to go inside just to see what awaits you on the other side if and when you become an owner of a Nespresso coffee machine.